Senin, 26 Maret 2012


Not only are they fun but they are extremely beautiful birds. Look at these parakeets Pictures!

Baby Parakeets Pictures

Blue Parakeets Pictures

Grenn Parakeets Pictures

Yellow Parakeets Pictures

White Parakeets Pictures

Cockatiels Pictures

Sabtu, 24 Maret 2012


How Training Amazon Parrots With Trust Really Works
Getting to know your Amazon Parrot is one of our priorities here at We have researched important training and taming techniques so you don’t have to. We especially love to give you historical information about your type of bird.
By understanding their past, you can begin to understand their true nature. One of the most interesting and exotic birds that many owners love to show off is the Amazon Parrot.
Amazon Parrots are native to the New World, as Christopher Columbus gave them their name when he brought some birds back home with him after his first voyage to the Americas.
There are 27 different types of Amazon parrots and they live from South America to Mexico and also in the Caribbean.
The Amazon Parrot talks so much that many people have wondered if they are just mimicking their owners and not actually speaking. Research, however, has upheld that they are actually speaking and that they are very intelligent. You can check this out for more on Amazon Parrot Sounds.
Amazon Parrots are very energetic, playful and demand a lot of attention from their human owners. They are also known for their strong and sometimes moody characteristics as well as how beautiful their plumage looks in flight. At different times they can be any of these: calm, cuddly, loud, quiet, stubborn, silly, jealous, playfully aggressive, or irritable. Not only are they fun but they are extremely beautiful birds.


You can Train Amazon Parrots to enjoy daily activities with you such as roller skating, skateboarding, golfing, bowling, getting groceries, making a meal, and setting the table. You will be constantly amazed by the talent of your Amazon Parrot.
Amazon’s need boundaries. They need to be taught what is and what is not acceptable behavior through rewarding the good and ignoring the bad. An example of this would be teaching your Amazon Parrot to stay on your hand and not to run up to your shoulder, as well as allowing you to hold onto its feet for safety and assurance that the bird won’t fall.
When they are on the shoulder and refusing to come down is when you have a problem. This when teaching “stationing” or “go to a place” (like a perch or cage top) can come into handy. A bird who refuses to come down off your shoulder when you ask it should not be allowed up there in the first place. We allow our own birds on our shoulders as long as 1. We put them there and 2. They come down when we request it.

All in all, Amazon Parrots make great pets for the whole family. Just watch our for their inclination to pick a favorite person and to always protect that person and stay close to them (usually the person who takes primary care so make sure everyone in the family does their part). Your Amazon Parrot as with most other parrot species have the intellect of about a 2 yr old child. So if you choose an Amazon you have to be ready to have a two year old in your house for the next 50 plus years. With that being said the proper socialization and Amazon Parrot Training make them delightful pets!
We can help you with this type of aggressive behavior and any other problems you may encounter with your pet. Our Amazon Parrot Training and Taming series specializes in helping you to teach your parrot how to overcome many behavior problems.

Rabu, 21 Maret 2012


Healthy Food for your Parakeet
The native parakeet grew up in the grasslands of Australia, living in eucalyptus trees. Those grasslands provided the parakeets what they needed to live. They would eat the fresh greens, the fruits and berries they found there, and the seeds that came in the fall.

So while Parakeet seed is ONE part of what a parakeet's diet should have in it, it is definitely not ALL, and a parakeet raised solely on parakeet seed will have some form of malnutrition. Even the fortified seeds you find in stores are usually fortified with a powder sprinkled on the outside of the seed. Since a parakeet hulls its seeds before eating them, leaving behind that outer shell, the fortification does little good.

The Association of Avian Veterinarians recommends the following diet for a parakeet:

50% cooked beans, whole wheat bread, cooked rice, pasta, and seed
45% fresh broccoli, carrots, yams, spinach, dandelion greens, other green/orange fruits and veggies
5% eggs, tuna packed in water, well cooked meat

Parakeets are lactose-intolerant and cannot eat a lot of dairy product. Also, parakeets are HIGHLY allergic to chocolate and avocados and should never be given either. Junk food such as pretzles, potato chips, etc. aren't good for a parakeet either! You can feed a parakeet fresh fruit such as apples and cherries, but be careful about the seeds as those have toxins in them. Lettuce is fine, but it really has no nutrients in it. It's better to give them other, healthier greens.

Parakeets do NOT overeat. If anything, people tend to give them too little food, thinking a seed cup is full when really it's just full of the hulls of the seeds the parakeet has already eaten. Be sure to refill your parakeet's food supply daily and to give him or her lots of fresh foods too.

Just like most people feed their cats and dogs "kibble" (processed pellets) instead of their natural foods (rabbits, rats, etc.) some people also feed their parakeets "kibble". The kibble is nutritionally balanced and a great way to meet all of the parakeet's food requirements easily. Some parakeets love kibble, others are convinced they want to eat "real food". Whichever way you go, be sure to give your parakeet a diet that is balanced and healthy.

You'll find millet in many pet stores. This is very high in fat and is a treat for parakeets. It should only be fed to them occasionally. Parakeets in the wild certainly did not have millet year-round!

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Kamis, 15 Maret 2012

BUDGERIGAR > Cockatiel Training

Cockatiel Training
Is your Cockatiel mean, unruly, or simply hard to train? If so, you have come to the right place – Bird Tricks. Cockatiels, like most birds, can be trained to behave and be a joy to yourself and to your family. Cockatiel Training takes time and patience but with the right tools you will succeed.
Training Cockatiels is something that anyone can do.  At Birdtricks we developed our system to make Cockatiel Training a fun, easy, and positive experience for both you and your Cockatiel.
We do not believe that Cockatiel Training should include any negative reinforcement.

Click Here To See How a 6 Year Old Used Our System On Her Cockatiel
As you know, an unruly bird can be a problem for you and for your family. They tend to bite, scratch, and be a nuisance in general, and they simply do not provide the joy and fun we expect from a house pet.
Our Cockatiel Training Program is Unique and unlike any other you may have seen in the past. With our program, you will not be seeing instructors taming birds that are already tame!
Even A  6 Year Old Was Able to Use Our System
In fact, what you will witness and learn is bird behavior itself. Why your cockatiel is acting the way he or she is acting is vital knowledge when it comes to changing that behavior, and we give complete instructions on understanding and then cockatiel training to change that behavior.

This Cockatiel Training Program offers:
·         Instruction on why your bird is acting the way he or she is acting.
·         Solid information on how to change that behavior.
·         Proven instructions that do not require a lot of time to learn.
·         You watch from the comfort of your own home.
·         Training that can be completed in as little as 2 weeks.
·         You end up with a Cockatiel that is excited to spend time with you every single day!

Training Cockatiels does not have to be difficult! Not with our proven program of instruction and information. Using the parrot training techniques we supply to you, yourcockatiels will be soon be:
·         Climbing into your hand. He or she will even do this without biting you!
·         Shaking their head Yes or No on a signal from you.  Will Amaze Your Friends
·         Playing fetch with you! They will learn to bring items back to you.
·         Waving on one leg to you and to your family and friends to say hello on command

Why not come by our website today and read more about how you can begin to finally learn the secrets to Cockatiel Training? Our system of training is proven and it will work for your bird no matter how many times you have tried to teach it in the past.
Bird Tricks welcomes you to contact us directly if you have any questions.  Your Cockatiel like other parrots love to chew.  If left a lone for long periods of time unsupervised do not be surprised if you find he happened to chew up left out newspapers or magazines. Training Cockatiels not to chew is impossible and not good for the tiel as it’s their nature to chew. For more info on cockatiel care check this out.
If you are ready to begin the journey in creating a great relationship with your pet cockatiel and are tired of him going crazy every time you put your hand in his cage sign up for our free newsletter or check out our Cockatiel Training course today!

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Minggu, 11 Maret 2012


About Parakeets cages, Purchasing a new cage for your bird can be scary. Many people worry about "freaking the bird out", with a new home that might look different. We usually hear that the transition to a new cage was painless, even though people are nervous about it. There are several things to consider to make it easier on your bird. However, keep in mind that birds don't always roost in the same place at night, nor nest in the same nest each year, so change should be acceptable. One thing you might do is keep the new cage the same color as the old. Always keep the perch layout the same in a new cage for at least a few days, and move old toys to the new cage instead of brand new ones right off the bat. The best time to "make the switch" is at night. When putting your bird to bed, place him in the new cage, cover him up, and turn out the lights!
That way, when he awakes in the morning, there it is, right where he was at, safe and sound all night! Usually in the morning, the main concern is food, and when he's done with that, he should go right on with his first day in the new home being a happy one.

Parakeet Cage Requirements:

·         One thing you might do is keep the new cage the same color as the old.
·         The  cage should not be made of toxic metals such as zinc, lead, or brass (wet brass tarnishes - this tarnish is toxic).
·         Stainless steel is best or powder-coated.
·         Do not put your parakeet in a cage that is rusted or has chipping paint.
·         If you find an old  cage in the attic, basement, trash-picking, or at a yard sale that only has a few rusty patches or a little chipping paint and you want to re-paint it for your parakeet - DON'T. Throw it out and get a new cage on amazon. The cost of getting a  cage sanded down and then powder-coated is more than you would pay for a new  cage on amazon.
·         Big enough for the  parakeet to not only fully turn around and spread out their wings, but to fly from one side to another - a absolute minimum of 18x18x24.. Buy the biggest cage you can afford. Parrot cages are MUCH cheaper online than they are in the petstore. Please check amazon for new parrot cages at great prices!
·         Horizontal bars because  parakeet love to climb!
·         Width is more important than height as parakeets fly horizontally.
·         Bar spacing should be no wider than 1/2 inch so that the  parakeet doesn't get their head stuck between the bars. Their heads are smaller than they look!
·         No round cages - a  parakeet doesn't feel safe in a round  cage - there is no back wall to retreat to. Along the same lines, be sure there is a wall behind at least one side of the cage.
·         A good size rectangular  cage is best - the palace shape or house shapes actually restrict the room the Parakeet has to fly and play and create a mess of poop and food the others do not.
·         Do not place the  cage next to a window. Drafts can cause the Parakeet to become sick. Keep the cage out of direct sunlight.
·         Place the cage in a room you spend alot of time in (though not the kitchen - because of fumes and hot unsafe surfaces) but that will be quiet at night.
·         Parakeet require alot of mental stimulation. Be sure they have lots of fun toys and that you rotate the toys frequently so that they do not become bored and so they get used to change.
·         Parakeet -proof the room the  parakeet will be flying in by making sure no open water surfaces, open windows/doors, uncurtained windows, other pets, etc will harm them.
·         Be sure to cover the  cage at night to provide darkness and a secure cover to prevent night-frights.
·         Several perches of varying widths are necessary to promote healthy feet and legs and to prevent foot sores caused by plain wooden dowels. We recommend the wood branch perches and rope perches.
·         Avoid: sand perch covers (cause foot sores), mite protectors (cause respiratory illness), bedding (breeds fungus and can cause crop impaction when injested) - paper towels or plain newsprint are best so you can watch poops for health.
·         Covered food and water dishes so parakeets don't poop in them and get sick.
·         Cuttle bone to chew on. It's good for their beaks and provides needed calcium.
·         Use pipe cleaners or twist ties to secure all  cage doors and windows. Parakeets are smart little buggers and can quickly and easily figure out how to give themselves some unsupervised out time!
·         Place the best wood perches up high - and the stone ones that are good for toe nail health down low.  Parakeet like to be up high and will spend most of their time on the nicer perches that are good for their feet. We don't recommend using the wooden dowels that come with  cages for anything other than step-ups and collecting  Parakeets from around the room to return to their cages.
·         Make sure there is a food bowl for each parakeet in the  cage so that they don't have to fight over it or the dominant Parakeet doesn't let the other parakeets near the food.
·         If you are going to have several parakeets in the same  cage - it's better to move them at the same time rather than moving a new bird into another's birds cage to avoid territorial issues.

okay hopefully useful.. J

Kamis, 08 Maret 2012

Budgerigar Parakeets > Overview, history, and species variants

Overview, history, and species variants
The parakeet, or Budgerigar, belongs to the family of true parrots, which explains why the parakeet is relatively adept at learning to talk. The parakeet comes from Australia and the first European to write anything about these colorful birds was John Gould in 1865 in his work titled "Birds of Australia". This bird, along with about 30 - 45 other small broad-tailed parrot species, belong to a tribe called Platycercini.
The members of this group are all native to Australia in particular, but also to Australasia, New Zealand, New Caledonia, and nearby islands. Besides the Budgerigar Parakeets, It includes birds like the grass parrots, Rosellas, and the New Zealand parrots. In the wild, the Parakeets or Budgerigar, comes from the interior of Australia where the landscape is almost desert-like and there are no regular rainy seasons. This arid environment will go for months and sometimes years without rain. Needless to say, this is a hardy bird.

Pet appeal
Budgerigar Parakeets make very good pets as long as they have a lot of attention and love. These birds are very social by nature. Living in groups of 20 to 40 and sometimes as many as 60 birds in the wild, and don’t like to be left alone. So if you own only one bird and you work 8 hour days, think about possibly getting him a mate or finding someone to at least keep the bird company for part of the time that you are gone.
Parakeets make just as good of pets singly or in pairs or more, but make sure that you introduce one bird at a time. Budgerigar Parakeets are monogamous so once they find a mate it is usually for life unless of course one of them has an untimely death in which the other would then find a new mate. Budgerigar Parakeets are very good flyers. In the wild they fly back and forth across vast regions searching for food and water, so provide them with free flying time and you will have a much happier birds.

Budgerigar Parakeets come in over 100 color forms but primarily in green (typical in the wild), various shades of blue, opaline, gray, white, yellow (lutino), pied (combination in one bird), and in various shades of these colors, some rarer than others. Budgerigar Parakeets are 7" to 9 3/8" in length from the tip of the bill over the head to the tip of the tail. The tail by itself is 3 1/8" to 4 1/2" long. Budgerigar Parakeets weigh anywhere from 1 - 1.4 ounces ( 30-40g). The life expectancy of the average parakeet is 12 to 14 years. They reach sexual maturity at 3 to 4 months. By this time they have there adult plumage which is quite unusual in the bird kingdom. 

Care and feeding
Ready made staple seed mixes are usually available at your local pet store or super market which contains a mixture of canary grass seed, white millet, yellow millet, oats and groats and red millet, niger seed and linseed. Some higher quality seed mixtures come with thistle, anise, rape, sesame, and safflower seed. Vitamin pellets with iodine in them are sometimes present to prevent thyroid problems. Store seed in a dark but airy place. Not in plastic bags but in a clothes bag in a closet. Offer fresh foods such as eggplant, green peas, cucumber, young dandelion greens, sweet corn, beet greens, carrots, unsprayed lettuce, green peppers, sorrel, spinach leaves, tomatoes and zucchini.

Fruits that are suitable are
Pineapples, apples, apricots, bananas, most other fruits. Food that is bad for birds includes: All members of the cabbage family, raw and green potatoes, green beans, grapefruit, rhubarb, plums, lemons, avocado. Parakeets also need a mineral block and a cuttlebone in their cage. These provide all the minerals and trace elements that they need. Offer spray millet every so often as a treat. And of course fresh water daily.

Enclosure and Physical Environment
As with all birds, you should give your Budgerigar Parakeets the largest cage possible – just be certain that the bars are no more than ½ inch apart, lest the bird escape, or get caught up in the attempt. Assuming that your pet is given frequent exercise periods outside of its cage, the minimum cage size for a single bird would be 12”x18”x18”. Budgerigar are extremely active, even by parrot standards. Fortunately, they adjust well to people and most soon tame down enough to be let out of their cage for daily exercise. The cage should be furnished with a variety of perches of different sizes and materials and a wide selection of toys. Rotating toys in and out of the cage from time to time will increase your bird’s interest in them. Even more than many of their relatives, budgerigars enjoy gnawing away at all sorts of materials, so be sure to keep them well supplied with suitable chew toys. In the warmer months, budgerigars housed in an outdoor aviary will keep you amused for hours on end with their antics.

Provide a roomy cage with the minimum dimensions of: 20" long x 12" deep x 18" high. The ideal size is: 40" long x 20" deep x 32" high. Preferably a cage with horizontal bars to make climbing easier. You can also attach a perch/play area on top of the cage. In the cage have about three perches of different diameters (or branches with some angling) without the sandpaper guards. A swing and mirror among other toys are available but be sure to leave enough room for flying! Food and water dishes, preferably automatic dispensing, or if not, ones with guards to prevent waste contamination. Clips to hold spray millet and fresh food. A bath house with a textured bottom is a favorite, or a slow running faucet will do. Provide a breeding box if breeding is what you have in mind.

The basic cage care includes daily cleaning of the water and food dishes. Weekly you should wash all the perches and dirty toys, and the floor should be washed about every other week. A total hosing down and disinfecting of an aviary should be done yearly, replacing anything that needs to be freshened, such as old dishes, toys and perches.

Light and Heat
Budgerigar are birds of open, sunlit environments, and will benefit greatly from exposure to unfiltered sunlight. If possible to do so safely, occasionally place your pet’s cage (locked and out of reach of predators) outdoors in nice weather. Be sure the bird can get into the shade when necessary. When indoors, your budgerigar’s cage should be lit with a full spectrum bird bulb – UVA light in particular has been shown to be of great benefit in stimulating natural behaviors and maintaining good health. Normal room temperatures suit these hardy birds just fine, but do not position the cage in a draft.

Handling and training
Take it slow at first and let the Budgerigar Parakeets get used to you and its new surroundings before trying to get him to go onto your finger. Allow flying time and don’t worry about catching him to put him.

References : -

Rabu, 07 Maret 2012

Budgerigar Parakeets > Maintaining the advantages of Parakeets

Maintaining the advantages of Parakeets
Parakeets likes to live in colonies and are very easy to adjust in the breeding cage.Common in the wild Parakeets. breed in the months from October to December.When the mating season the male often sings in a tone of persuasion to lure females. Up to one another when there is a match then the marriage will soon take place. Weight ranges from 2.5 grams Parakeets eggs / egg number of grains with an average of 6 eggs / pair  Parakeets . Even this bird was known to be loyal to her partner.
When the female is on eggs then the male will wait outside while whistling an entertaining and will expel any intruders near the nest.  Parakeets children coming out of its egg shell weighted average of 2.35 grams with eyes still closed condition. After nine days before her eyes open. After the age of 30 days before the child starts  Parakeets are ready to leave the nest to learn to fly. But though it began to fly, the mother usually is fed until the age of 40 days. After the usual preparation for the age of marriage for a new generation will be done. Children begin to mature sex parakeet to perform marriages after the age of 90 days. The males will soon be old enough to entice females to mate with killer whistles that will breed offspring. 
Easy to maintain
Treatment of bird species is relatively easy. Enclosure that is required is not so great though for breeding though. Size 40 x 40 x 60 cm is enough to start breeding.As for the display of the beauty of the common cage size is adequate. But because it is like to colonize a variety of colors and diversity of this it would not be wrong if we set up a rather large size of the cage. In addition we can place a few pairs. The beauty of the iridescent-colored  Parakeets with each other will be very clear.  
Here are tips on Parakeets care is :
  • Try to choose a different stem colors. Characteristics of male and female  Parakeets  can be easily distinguished after 4 months of age. Males have a characteristic blue color at the top of his nostrils. If the color is dirty white, beige or brown, then certainly it is female.
  • Choose the look is matched with a partner because it will be easier for captive.
  • Adjust the size of the cage with the number of pairs that are not too tight so that the result is not good for the health of birds, including damage in terms of enjoying it.'Private house' which is generally made of cotton-shaped wooden box a requirement for each pair of  Parakeets .
  • Prepare also reserves to the breeding cage when the pair of birds have started production.
  • Maintain the availability of food and drink. Usahan in a clean condition.
  • Remove the food from rotting due to excess feeding mainly vegetables such as bean sprouts, corn or other
  • The main food of this bird is millet are also readily available at food stalls selling birds.  

Well .. for those of you who intend to tame the bird Parakeets-Cockatiels , it helps to consider these tips to tame  Parakeets , the following tips or tricks we can use, if some way had previously been unsuccessful aka  Parakeets are always away when our hands are held out to feed. Maybe the little bird thought our hands this exotic bigger than his size as a threat. Well there is one special trick to anticipate it. 
His ways are as follows:
  • Position the seat us near the cage of  Parakeets .
  • On the first day try to buy a Parakeets cage inserted directly, and there are 2 ways, 1. There are directly taken from the baskets then release. 2. There are inserted the same baskets, but the bond is opened baskets  Parakeets let out alone, if already taken hold in the basket out. 
  • After 1 to 2 days leave without first touched by the hand, do not bother at first but give us to eat and drink and chat.
  • on day 3,  Parakeets by reducing eating, some are said not to be fed from morning until evening. And started handed food by hand (handfeed)
  • for a try with barley renceng on the first and second straight at home to enter to get accustomed rencengnya barley, not with millet or barley that has become a point.
  • make it a habit to give a signal before feeding such as snapping your fingers, pat smooth cage, ring the bell, or use a clicker as a sign that there is the sound of every bell he will get to eat.Train continues until he recognized the signs.
  • While calling his name (required) taped to put our finger food to start fishing. If that does not respond even go away on the following trick.
  • Take a stick with a long rod approximately 20 cm.
  • Wet the tip of a stick with a small amount of water that serves to attach the millet or barley seeds at the ends. 
  • Extend the attached end of the stick, the millet seeds slowly so do not be surprised or  Parakeets panic in action.
  • If the  Parakeets would take a positive sign that the food is forwarded over and over again and do not forget to call her name.
  • Now we try to reduce the hand grip on the stick, so that the distance of our hands by the end of a stick is getting closer. do until we are on hand near the feed end of the stick. Well if  Parakeets are no longer afraid of the stick, then remove and replace with the fingers moistened with water to put a millet seed.
  • If the Parakeets was willing to take the food directly, then try our hand enter the cage and give feedback as close up. And so on until he's really comfortable.
  • The next action is handed our index finger to the stamping feet of  Parakeets , if he did it begin to show signs of benign means. 

Well above is the one trick tame  Parakeets or other birds. Of course there are other tricks of the experienced birds. oke good luck.. :)